Modern Indian dining is a sea of potential and when it comes to challenging expectations, Masque has proven its mettle many times over. Named among the 50 Best Restaurants in Asia, and one of the most reputed modern Indian spots in the world, there’s no questioning their credentials. Founded in 2016 by Aditi Dugar and currently helmed by Chef Varun Totlani, the restaurant has broken ground in many aspects including opening up the wealth of India's regional cuisines.

With buzzwords like seasonal and sustainability being the go-tos for every restaurant in town, setting a fresh standard for their summer menu could have been a challenge in itself. But as per Chef Varun's ethos, seasonality isn’t a new concept for Indian dining, it’s the foundation of the way we eat. “When you go into people’s homes anywhere in the country, they eat based on availability,” he says, “some restaurants pay extra for ingredients that are imported, but overall, following seasonality is already the most efficient way to cook.”

Masque’s summer menu is a translation of that ethos, building on Chef Varun’s travels and drawing inspiration from the wealth of Indian produce and culinary traditions, he's taken flavours from across the country and gently remixed them into a light, summer palette. What stands out is how effortlessly flavours from all across the country coexist, from a Bengali posto sharing space with Maharashtrian Amti, Masque's latest creations bring a refreshing lightness to the table, perfectly suited to the balmy days of summer.

Throughout the menu, seasonal ingredients took centre stage. Slightly sweet young ponkh, fried to a crisp and served with tart pickled strawberries exemplified the freshness of the season. But the ingredients also played into a larger narrative about Indian cuisine. Masque's reinvention of classic dishes like idiyappam and stew brought a modern twist to a familiar favourite which was based on Chef Varun’s trip to Kerala. Instead of the rich warm curry, they switched it up for a lighter coconut foam with the same flavours paired with a crisp duck floss, fried idiyappam, topped with bhavnagari chillies and curry leaves, which transformed the textural experience while still retaining the dish’s essence.

Another highlight is the barbecue course featuring a pork rib, brined for 2 days and smoked for 7 hours, which is paired with a rhubarb and tamarind glaze on a base of raw mango salad topped with amaranth, with the salad effectively alleviating the heaviness of the dish. Each dish told a story, weaving together influences from across India and beyond. From the smoky notes of Kerala to the European-inspired white wine sauce with mud crab topped with nuggets of Chattisgarhi fara.

Alsio Read: Chef Rahul Rana Of Avatara Shares Memories Of Rishikesh And The Magic Of A Michelin Star

The menu also offered lighter options like steamed squid with gooseberry and gondhoraj oil, providing a refreshing respite. Simple and clean, this was a dish with nowhere to hide, and the combination of the squid with a kachri kanji (a cold cucumber curry) accentuated that. As they say, no Indian meal is complete without rice and the main course involves an expansive thali with tandoor soft shell crab, Maharashthtrian raw mango amti with a base of tender lamb cheek, a serving oil-crisped Ladyfish in a Bengali posto, and a tart ambemohar rice with a side of buttery, croissant-esque ladi pav. This was the only course where they strayed slightly from the otherwise fresh, light menu and while each dish was beautifully done, it did seem like an attempt to get a lot on the plate before dessert.

Speaking of the desserts – a decadent finale to the meal the refreshing roselle sorbet with musk melon rabri granita, was a return to the light summer vibe. The innovative use of cacao waste, is a nod to sustainability and resourcefulness, while the pairing of grapefruit, orange, gondhoraj ice cream, cashew praline and chocolate fudge is a wonderful play between deep cocoa and ethereal citrus notes.

Masque's summer menu was a refreshing reminder of what honouring India’s cuisines truly means. It wasn't just about following trends; it was about embracing the diverse ingredients and traditions of the season while also pushing the boundaries just enough to keep things interesting.